The Right Sleeve Length

A precision cut sleeve that shows some white is a trademark of a custom tailored suit! It’s a shame that many people (including high ranking politicians) these days wear jacket sleeves that are not tailored.

Here is a picture of French Defense Minister Jean-Yves Le Drian, accompanied by Itsunori Onodera, reviewing an honor guard detail in Japan. (Photograph courtesy of Reuters)

 

Outlined in green is the correct way to have your sleeves tailored, while red indicates fail.

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Three or Four Sleeve Buttons?

Which is better, 3 or 4 sleeve buttons?

Answer: Four sleeve buttons on your suit’s sleeve if your arms are long. Three sleeve buttons on your sleeve if your arms are short.

If you want to show that your jacket is truly custom made and bespoke, try to get four functional kissing bone buttons on your sleeves like pictured below.

Kissing buttons made of bull horn.

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The Ideal Length for a Business Suit

The ideal length of a business suit is something that is often overlooked by many people who wear suits.

To be frank, can you actually imagine so called “businessmen” of the past generation looking as if they have torsos longer then their legs! This goes out especially to the men who have long arms.

So What Causes the Suit Length to be too Long?

Most Common Reason:

Most tailors measure the length of a jacket by measuring your torso to the knuckle of your first thumb without giving a thought to the length of your torso. So if you have long arms, prepare to look like your wearing a trench coat and that is why professional tailors only use this as a reference but do not solely rely on it.

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Common Type of Tie Knots

There are tons of ways to tie a necktie. Although I will cover the most used tie knots here is a list of tie knots just to educate you what’s out there.

List of Tie Knots:

  1. Clip-on (permanently knotted tie… definitely for the lazy. Don’t get caught wearing one)
  2. Four-in-hand (aka the schoolboy knot)
  3. Shelby knot
  4. Reverse Shelby (for the wild and creative)
  5. Half Windsor (used for business and semi-formal)
  6. Windsor knot (generally used for business and formal)
  7. The Small knot (similar to the school boy knot)

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How long should your necktie be?

Have you ever seen people who claim to be serious about business but don’t know how to tie a necktie? What is also bothersome is that don’t know how long their neckties should be.

You might call me crazy but this really bothers me and the way people don their neckties tells me something about their personality. I don’t care how a good of a business deal is presented, I just have my doubts especially with someone who doesn’t know how to properly wear a necktie. To me, it shows that they are uneducated or don’t care about themselves.

If in doubt with a necktie, don’t use one at all… but you will lose points for the lack of formality.

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What kind of Dress Shoes to Choose?

A good pair of quality leather shoes give any wearer confidence because as the saying goes “Like white shirts, delicate watches and coattails, the very lack of practicality is what makes them dressy.”

You Must Consider these Four Factors in Dress Shoes:

  1. The shoe is made of quality leather (e.g. calf, veal, and etc.)
  2. Soles should be made of leather not rubber. (leather soles are considered superior to rubber soles)
  3. The soles are stitched and not glued.
  4. The stitching should be neat and subtle.
  5. The lining (the inside of the shoe), should be made of real and not synthetic leather.

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