How to Choose Dress Shoes: Fit, Soles and Style

Start with the dress code and the amount of walking you do. The shoe needs to fit your foot in motion and have a sole suited to the surfaces you walk on.

Try both shoes on with your usual socks. Walk several laps and check the ball of the foot, heel and toes. A shoe that pinches sharply during the fitting is a poor bet for a long workday.

Choose the construction and sole for your use

• Leather soles can suit formal wear. Rubber soles or discreet rubber inserts may be more practical for wet pavements.
• Ask whether the maker or a local cobbler can resole the model. A visible stitch by itself tells you little about the construction.
• Inspect the lining, finish and consistency across both shoes. Check that the heel sits securely.

Narrow down the style

Oxfords have closed lacing and usually read as dressier. Derbies have open lacing and are a flexible business option. Broguing adds decorative perforations and a less formal feel. For a first pair, choose a style that works with the clothes you already wear most.