Dress Shirt Collar Styles: Point, Spread, Cutaway and More

Start by matching the collar to how you wear the shirt. A point or semi-spread collar works with many business ties. A button-down can be useful if you spend much of the week with the top button open.

Look at the space between the collar points with the shirt buttoned. The knot should sit in that space without pushing the collar points up or leaving a conspicuous gap around it.

A quick guide to the common shapes

• Point: narrower opening. Try a small four-in-hand knot.
• Semi-spread: moderate opening. Works with many everyday ties and knots.
• Spread and cutaway: wider opening. Try a half Windsor first, then adjust for the fabric thickness.
• Button-down: the points fasten to the shirt. Often worn with more relaxed tailoring.
• Club: rounded points. A smaller knot keeps the rounded shape visible.

Try the collar with the jacket on

Check that the points sit neatly against the shirt and beneath the jacket lapels where the shape allows. Then check comfort with the top button fastened. The collar size and the shape both affect how well it works.